Original 1st Run Pheonix Gold MS2125/Grey n/Shroud,Nice Start Price USD 849.99 Current Price USD 849.99 Time Left - Bid Count 0 Buy It Now Price - Reserve Price - Start Time Wednesday, November 19, 2008 End Time Wednesday, November 26, 2008 Location Byhalia, Ms See more about 'Original 1st Run Pheonix Gold MS2125/Grey n/Shroud,Nice' Description SquareTrade © AP6.0   This is a relist due to a accidental purchase.     Ok you guys..I'm not going to do a big long description on this one either. Still one of the greatest sound quality amplifiers around. This is the first run edition of the MS2125 (grey) in the highly sound after cooling shroud. There is not much difference from the grey version and the later white version, save for just a few. For one it has the master/slave ports on it, and I personally believe the traces on the board are a little thicker. I say this because I usually don't see the gold ever discolored on the grey ones, and they actually seem to hold up a little better. At any rate, this setup is beautiful, and given the fact it is fan cooled you can run it lower and get more out of her. The shrouds really set these off for a nice install, plus they serve a function as well. The Mobile Series were designed to provide optimal power at high impedance loads such as 4 ohm stereo or 4 ohm bridged. They also have a higher wattage rating for competitions such as IASCA or USAC. The Mobile Professional Series provide their optimal power into low impedance loads such as 1 ohm bridged or .5 stereo. The MPS series have much lower competition wattage ratings. They are often called "Cheater" amps because they allow competitors to compete in lower power brackets, when in reality they are using a lot more real world power. The MS series has no "governor" or "limiter" circuits to restrict it's power supply when you run at lower impedances. This means if your careful and no what your doing, you can get a lot of performance out of your amp. Bridging the MS series to a 2 ohm load is not a problem IF you pay attention to a few basic things: 1. If this were the only amp in the system, it would require at least 2 gauge wire from the battery to the rear of the car. Since it is very likely that you will have some amps for mids and highs, I highly suggest running 1/0 wire from front to rear. Then use 4 gauge wire from a distribution block to a minimum 1 farad capacitor. Finally, 4 gauge from the capacitor to the amp. Add more caps if you can afford them and fit them into your install. A 4 gauge ground wire to the rear frame assembly will provide a good ground. There's no need for a dedicated fuse for any MS or MPS amp. However, for competition you may want one anyway to meet the "easy and quick access" judging rules. If the amp were mounted upside down under a quick opening Plexiglas panel or something, that would take care of it. The reason for all the power wiring overkill is a matter of basic ohm's law. For example a MS2125, will TRY to double its power and make about 1,000 watts. However, the size of the amp's power supply will only allow it to make about 720 watts. To make that much power, the power supply MUST have adequate amounts of current. How much? At max undistorted output with typical music material, about 65 amps continuous with peaks (< 50 milliseconds) of around 100 amps. Any amount of resistance in the power or ground side of the circuit restricts current flow. If we restrict current flow then the voltage at the amp's B+ and B- terminals will sag when heavy bass notes hit. And when the voltage sags so does output power. When everything is complete, you can check the voltage drop at the amp's power terminals with the engine idling and no electrical loads turned on. Then play the system at maximum and watch the voltage sag with heavy bass notes. Maximum allowable sag is about 1 volt. Ideally, it should be less than 1/2 volt. 2. You'll need cooling fans. Extra power means extra heat. The heatsink isn't large enough to naturally dissipate the heat generated from low impedance operation. This is another reason people like to put the amp upside down under Plexiglas. With an enclosed amp rack and a couple of 3 inch fans on each end (two pushing and two pulling), you can force the air through the heatsink fins. On the oldschool PG stuff, condition really is everything. This one is pretty nice, actually, very nice. Thanks for checking out the auction.  Questions? Email or buzz me at 901-949-0293     SquareTrade © squaretrade warranty v2.0 Place a Bid!